A self-supported, single-day link-up of the Glen Coe section of Ken Wilson’s “Classic Rock” has been achieved by climbers Ali Rose and Matt Rowbottom in a remarkable time of twelve hours and fifty-six minutes. Driven by a pre-booked pizza reservation, the duo tackled seven iconic routes, totaling 53 pitches and covering over 23 kilometers on foot.
Celebrating a potential victory on Archer Ridge. (© Ali Rose)
This impressive feat follows Rose’s previous accomplishment of the Cairngorms version of the challenge three years prior. In that endeavor, he and Mark Chambers linked six routes and 28 pitches in just under seventeen and a half hours, traversing over 60 kilometers. Initially, Rose considered the Glen Coe link-up improbable due to the perceived difficulty of navigating the gullies quickly and safely. However, Keri and Ben Wallace’s recent completion of the round inspired him to reconsider.
Inspired by Previous Success, Driven by Pizza
“Keri and Ben completing their round made me have another look and realize that it could be done relatively quickly in the right conditions,” Rose explained.
Ascending the Converging Walls pitch in The Chasm. (© Ali Rose)
Last Friday, Rose and Rowbottom embarked on their ambitious challenge, facing 3,000 meters of elevation gain across seven routes: The Chasm, North Face Route, Agag’s Groove, The Long Crack, Archer Ridge, Crypt Route, and Clachaig Gully.
To avoid crowds, they opted for a 3:30 am start, aiming to complete the Buachaille Etive Mor routes before other teams arrived. This strategy proved successful, allowing them to clear the area by 8:15 am. They also chose to descend Curved Ridge twice instead of traversing the summit of Buachaille Etive Mor and eliminated the need for a gear drop below Bidean nam Bian, differentiating their approach from Wallace and Wallace’s.
A Challenging but Rewarding Day in the Mountains
Despite encountering hot weather in the afternoon, the team experienced minimal difficulties, aside from a minor route-finding error on Crypt Route. Favorable cloud cover in the morning likely contributed to their success, as the intense heat of the following days might have hindered their progress.
Commencing the ascent of Agag’s Groove just before 8am. (© Ali Rose)
“Such a great day with so much climbing,” Rose recounted. “It only got really hot after in the afternoon as we were headed down off Bidean and towards Clachaig.” He acknowledged their luck with the weather. The pre-booked pizza celebration added an extra layer of commitment to finishing within their 14-hour goal.
Classic Rock Route Breakdown: A Test of Endurance
The “Classic Rock” Glen Coe link-up encompassed the following routes:
- The Chasm (VS): 450m, 16 pitches
- North Face Route (S): 220m, 8 pitches
- Agag’s Groove (VD): 105m, 4 pitches
- The Long Crack (HS 4a): 90m, 2 pitches
- Archer Ridge (S 4a): 70m, 3 pitches
- Crypt Route (VD): 135m, 4 pitches
- Clachaig Gully (S): 520m, 16 pitches
A challenging move on Crypt Route. (© Ali Rose)
Matt navigating Clachaig Gully. (© Ali Rose)
Exhausted but triumphant after completing the challenge. (© Ali Rose)
