From Pharmacy to Popular Pour: The History of Rock and Rye
Interestingly, rock and rye’s initial purpose was far from recreational. In the late 1870s, pharmacies across America stocked their shelves with their own rock and rye recipes, often touting them as medicinal cough syrups. This categorization was strategic; as medicine, rock and rye was taxed at a lower rate than standard liquor, boosting potential profits. However, in 1883, the U.S. government officially reclassified it as a distilled spirit. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) defines rock and rye as a spirit with a minimum 25.5% alcohol by volume, crafted with rye, straight rye, or whiskey distilled from a rye mash bill, and sweetened with either rock candy or sugar syrup. The addition of fruits, fruit juices, or other natural flavorings is permitted, adding to its versatility.
Despite its reclassification, the medicinal aura of rock and rye lingered. An 1891 advertisement in Chicago for Tolu rock and rye boldly promoted it as a remedy “for coughs, colds, sore throat, bronchitis, asthma, pneumonia, consumption and all diseases of the throat, chest and lungs.” Some even stretched the claims further, suggesting it could alleviate “women’s issues” and even cancer. To support these exaggerated claims, rock and rye recipes at the turn of the 20th century incorporated a medley of exotic ingredients. Additives like cloves, balsam, and horehound were included, intending to impart medicinal properties. While these health claims were largely unfounded, the appealing combination of sweetness and potency garnered a dedicated following for rock and rye.
The Modern Revival of a Classic Whiskey Liqueur
“Rock and rye cures absolutely nothing, but it can taste great,” quips Allen Katz, founder of New York Distilling Company and the creator of Mister Katz’s Rock and Rye. His 65-proof rendition blends the distillery’s own rye whiskey with the flavors of bing cherries and cinnamon bark. Freed from the burden of medicinal claims, Katz focused on creating a rock and rye tailored to contemporary palates. He even collaborated with the Brooklyn Navy Yard to evaluate sixteen different types of sugar to achieve the perfect sweetness. Katz envisions his rock and rye as a bottled cocktail, versatile enough to be enjoyed on the rocks, mixed into cocktails, or even as a shot. “The current enthusiasm for rye whiskey has paved the way for people to embrace and experiment with rock and rye,” he observes.
Pennsylvania stands out as a region that has consistently cherished rock and rye. For generations, residents of the Keystone State have turned to state-controlled liquor stores each winter to stock up on Jacquin’s rock and rye. According to the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, an impressive 3,272,582 bottles of Jacquin’s were sold in the year ending 2017, making it the third best-selling spirit in the state. This 54-proof, reddish-hued spirit resembles a ready-to-drink Old-Fashioned, uniquely featuring slices of fruit floating within the bottle. Charles Jacquin et Cie in Philadelphia has been producing this local favorite since 1884. It’s fitting that the national rock and rye revival has roots in Pennsylvania; Rob Cooper, the visionary behind Hochstadter’s Slow & Low, belonged to the family that owns Jacquin’s and gained experience there before venturing out on his own.
Today, innovative labels like Reilly’s ginger rock and rye are emerging, offering creative twists on the spirit while nodding to its pre-Prohibition origins. However, a significant departure from the past is the absence of any medicinal benefit claims on these modern bottles. Rock and rye whiskey is no longer marketed as medicine; it’s appreciated for what it truly is: a flavorful and historically rich American spirit.
Crafting Your Own Rock and Rye at Home
Inspired to try your hand at making rock and rye? This historically informed recipe, developed by Sam Komlenic, offers a guide to creating your own batch. The recipe utilizes Claey’s candy horehound drops to replicate the flavor of horehound herb in a more palatable way.
Ingredients:
- 750 ml 80-proof rye whiskey
- 4-5 Claey’s horehound drops
- 2-3 Tbsp honey
- 2 orange quarters, peel on
- 2 lemon quarters, peel on
- ⅛ peeled pineapple, chunked
- 6 cloves
- 2 cinnamon sticks
Instructions:
Combine all ingredients in a large jar and let sit at room temperature. After approximately one week, or to your taste preference, remove the cloves and cinnamon sticks. Adjust sweetness by adding more honey or simple syrup if desired. The fruit can remain until you are ready to decant the mixture. To achieve a clear and visually appealing rock and rye, decant multiple times to remove sediment that forms from the fruits and spices.
Once strained, the boozy fruit can be stored in a sealed container in the refrigerator almost indefinitely and enjoyed as a unique, spirited snack.
