Nestled in the southwestern Sierra Nevada, Dome Rock stands as a more accessible and forgiving counterpart to the famed Needles. While the Needles allure seasoned climbers with their mystical spires and challenging, often sparsely protected trad routes reminiscent of Cochise Stronghold, Dome Rock offers a welcoming introduction to the region’s granite climbing. Just a short approach from the car, the classic “Tree Route” (5.6) on Dome Rock provides a fantastic multi-pitch experience without the commitment and potential hazards of venturing into burn-scarred areas or tackling notoriously run-out climbs.
Our climbing adventure began early one long weekend as we drove south, navigating the winding roads from Porterville. The aftermath of the Castle Fire was still evident, with debris clearing operations causing significant delays on Route 190. Finally reaching Dome Rock after 11 AM, we were greeted by rapidly rising temperatures. Eager to start climbing, we quickly organized our gear at the car and followed the well-trodden path that circumnavigates the north and east sides of the rock, leading directly to the base of the Tree Route.
Well-defined trail leading to Dome Rock climbing route
The Needles formations visible during the approach to Dome Rock
The approach to Dome Rock is straightforward, marked by occasional cairns across the slabby sections, and takes a mere ten minutes from the parking area. A prominent, albeit deceased, pine tree serves as a natural landmark, clearly indicating the start of the Tree Route. Upon arriving at the base, we observed another climbing team already making their way up the second pitch.
Looking up the Tree Route on Dome Rock towards the iconic tree
After a quick refuel with snacks and water, we prepared our rope, and I embarked on the first pitch. This initial section features a gently angled crack that meanders upwards towards the large, dead tree that gives the route its name. To prevent rope drag, I opted to climb slightly to the right of the tree. I then searched for remnants of a second deceased pine, which is traditionally considered the marker for the first belay station. Spotting two smaller pines growing in a crack, I speculated whether they might be obscuring the original belay. Briefly considering a two-bolt belay to the left, which belongs to the “Anti-Jello Crack” route, I decided to traverse back right to a different two-bolt anchor designated for “Last Homely House.” While this added a slight traverse for my climbing partner, Holly, it seemed preferable to belaying directly from the cluster of small pine trees.
Looking down the first pitch of Tree Route from an alternate belay station on Dome Rock
Looking up the second pitch, a classic splitter crack on Dome Rock
The second pitch is widely regarded as the highlight of the Tree Route – a stunning 110-foot stretch of splitter, albeit slightly baggy, finger crack. While finger cracks aren’t my strongest suit, the low angle of this section, combined with ample knobs and features on both sides, makes this crack surprisingly forgiving and enjoyable. I started up the crack, strategically placing protection approximately every 25 feet to conserve my supply of smaller cams. As the main crack system tapered out, I moved a few feet to the left, transitioning into another crack system that led to a comfortable, triangular-shaped depression large enough to sit in. Here, I constructed a gear anchor using three cams, carefully managing the rope to keep it clear of a trail of ants, before bringing Holly up to join me.
Looking down the second pitch of Tree Route on Dome Rock, showcasing the crack's quality
Zoomed view towards the Needles formations from Dome Rock
Taking a break at the base of the third pitch on Dome Rock's Tree Route
Looking up the third pitch of the Tree Route, featuring easier terrain
Pitch three proved to be relatively short, continuing along the same crack system towards an easily manageable lieback flake. This section offered some of the easiest climbing on the entire route. Two distinct, stacked flakes provided lieback opportunities, each accommodating different sized cams, a beneficial feature for climbers aiming to ascend with a lighter rack. This pitch culminated at a three-bolt belay ledge – not expansive, but certainly the most spacious belay station encountered on the route thus far.
Looking down the third pitch of Tree Route on Dome Rock from the belay
View from the belay station on pitch three of Dome Rock's Tree Route
The slabby and final pitch of Tree Route on Dome Rock
I quickly brought Holly up to the third belay, ready to tackle the final pitch, which offers two distinct options for finishing the Tree Route. The traditional “Tree Route” exit involves an ascending traverse to the right, leading to a weakness with a 5.5 move to gain the slabs above. However, the more contemporary and increasingly popular finish is to climb directly up the slab from the belay, passing two bolts that lead to a 5.6 weakness directly above. Opting for the latter, more direct variation, I started up the slab. The rock was noticeably polished, and I momentarily lost purchase in one spot – thankfully after clipping the first bolt, avoiding a fall onto the somewhat glassy surface. In truth, this final pitch felt somewhat incongruous with the preceding three, which were characterized by excellent crack climbing, while this last pitch primarily involved delicate slab technique. The step up and over the final slab proved to be far easier than it initially appeared from below and felt considerably less challenging than the crux move on Tollhouse Traverse, despite the latter being nominally rated lower, although Tollhouse is notorious for its sandbagged grading. Above the step, the route quickly transitioned into third-class terrain, and I proceeded to the nearest tree to establish a belay for Holly. She efficiently ascended the slab and soon joined me just below the summit. We had climbed the route at a relaxed pace, completing the four pitches in under two hours, and could have easily shaved off more time by linking pitches one and two, or three and four. From the tree, we moved slightly closer to the highest point, settling into a prolonged break in the shade, relishing the panoramic views of the Needles to the northeast, the Mineral King area to the north, and Olancha Peak to the east – one of my more ambitious adventures earlier in the year.
Summit view towards the Needles from Dome Rock, Olancha Peak visible in the distance
Southern view towards Kernville from the summit of Dome Rock
Northern view towards Mineral King from the summit of Dome Rock
After enjoying the summit for about an hour, we descended back to the car and continued south, making a stop in Kernville for a post-climb meal before heading north on the eastern side of the Sierra, spending the remainder of the weekend exploring the Mammoth Lakes region.
