Nestled within the heart of Arkansas’s Ouachita National Forest, the Eagle Rock Loop stands as a testament to the raw beauty and challenging terrain of the Natural State. For avid backpackers seeking a demanding yet rewarding experience, this 26-mile trek offers an unforgettable journey through rugged mountains, alongside pristine streams, and under a canopy of lush forest. As we prepared for our upcoming Appalachian Trail adventure, my partner Kaci and I sought a shakedown hike that would test our gear and our mettle. The Eagle Rock Loop (ERL) in Arkansas proved to be the perfect proving ground.
Our adventure began with a drive to Mena, Arkansas, a town with a history as intriguing as the trails we were about to explore. Mena’s proximity to the Athens-Big Fork and Little Missouri trail junction made it an ideal starting point for our loop. Interestingly, we later discovered Mena’s claim to fame as the setting for the movie American Made, depicting its unexpected role in American history. After a night at a local inn and a hearty breakfast, we set our sights on the Ouachita National Forest, eager to immerse ourselves in the wilderness.
Navigating Nature’s Fury: Flash Flood Preparedness
The night before our trek, heavy rains descended upon the region, a prelude to the challenges that lay ahead. While we are seasoned hikers accustomed to backpacking in wet conditions, the Ouachita National Forest is known for its susceptibility to flash flooding, compounded by limited cell service. Prior to our trip, we diligently researched water levels and potential hazards, particularly concerning crossings of the Little Missouri River. Satisfied that conditions seemed manageable, we ventured into the forest, prepared to embrace whatever nature threw our way.
Embarking on the Athens-Big Fork Trail
Arriving at the trailhead, we found only one other vehicle, a sign of the solitude we were about to encounter. Donning our rain gear and hoisting our packs, we crossed the Little Missouri River and began our southward journey on the Athens-Big Fork Trail. This trail is renowned for its demanding nature, often cited as one of the most strenuous hikes in Arkansas. Our first day confirmed this reputation as we tackled seven miles encompassing five significant mountain ascents.
Day 1: Athens-Big Fork Challenge
The Athens-Big Fork Trail lived up to its challenging reputation immediately. Each mountain presented a formidable climb, with ascents of at least 500 feet, often lacking the gradual switchbacks common in other regions. Instead, the trail relentlessly charged straight uphill and then directly down the other side. Compounding the physical exertion, the persistent rain transformed every creek and stream crossing into a swift and potentially hazardous obstacle.
Blaylock Creek proved to be the most memorable challenge of the day. Swollen by the recent downpour, the water surged thigh-high, flowing with impressive force. Estimating the discharge at 500-800 cubic feet per second, it was a stark reminder of nature’s power. A mile beyond Blaylock Creek, we decided to call it a day, seeking respite from the relentless rain and setting up camp at tent site three, as indicated by our Guthook app.
Day 2: Viles Branch Trail and a Difficult Decision
Day two dawned with a welcome change – clear skies and crisp air. Although temperatures were cool, the absence of rain lifted our spirits. We continued south on the Athens-Big Fork Trail, reaching the junction with the Viles Branch Trail relatively easily. Navigating this intersection can be slightly confusing, but we quickly oriented ourselves and headed east, towards what we knew would be the most precarious river crossing of the entire loop: the Little Missouri River at the Viles Branch junction.
The heavy rainfall from the previous day and night had dramatically increased water levels. Upon reaching the Viles Branch/Little Missouri Trail junction, the river presented a formidable barrier. It was immediately apparent that a safe crossing was impossible at that time. While waiting for the water to recede was an option, our schedule was tight. Later, we learned that the river was nearly two feet above the recommended safe crossing level.
Faced with the hazardous conditions and time constraints, Kaci and I made the difficult decision to turn back, abandoning our attempt to complete the full Eagle Rock Loop. While disappointment lingered, the prospect of a relaxing day in Hot Springs for our anniversary provided a silver lining. Ironically, we later learned from another hiker via Facebook that the river had become passable by afternoon. We retraced our steps to the previous night’s campsite, having logged 11 miles for the day.
Day 3: Homeward Bound via Athens-Big Fork
Our final day began at first light. We packed up camp swiftly and began the trek back towards the Athens-Big Fork/Little Missouri junction, re-conquering the mountains we had traversed on day one. This time, Blaylock Creek was significantly calmer, reduced to ankle to calf deep with a slow current. The terrain that had challenged us on the first day now seemed much more manageable. We covered just over seven miles, completing a 26-mile out-and-back hike, albeit not the loop we had initially planned. Exiting the trail, we drove to Hot Springs, where well-deserved showers and a delicious meal awaited.
Eagle Rock Loop: A Hiker’s Perspective
Despite not completing the full loop due to unforeseen flooding, our experience on the Eagle Rock Loop was undeniably rewarding. The trail offers a compelling blend of demanding physical challenges and breathtaking natural beauty. For hikers seeking to test their limits amidst stunning scenery, the ERL delivers. It proved to be an excellent shakedown hike for our Appalachian Trail aspirations, reinforcing our preparedness and highlighting areas for refinement. Arkansas continues to impress as a premier backpacking destination. If you have the opportunity, explore the Eagle Rock Loop and discover for yourself the rugged charm of the Natural State.
