The debate within the climbing community about responsible chalk use is ongoing. While traditional climbing chalk is widely accepted, concerns are rising about additives like rosin, especially in liquid chalk, and their potential harm to climbing holds and the natural rock environment. This article explores the nuances of this debate, focusing on the impact of different types of climbing chalk and highlighting why understanding ingredients is crucial for every climber.
The discussion often starts by comparing traditional chalk to pof, resin, or rosin – terms often used interchangeably in climbing. In areas like Fontainebleau, the buildup of pof on holds has long been recognized as a problem, leading to smooth, glassy surfaces. Many believe pof is the primary culprit for this issue, but the increasing prevalence of rosin in climbing chalk, particularly liquid chalk, demands a closer look. Even the mixture of pof and chalk could exacerbate the problem, creating a more persistent and damaging residue on the rock.
Outside of Fontainebleau, the climbing community has generally opposed pof, while accepting chalk as a necessary tool for performance. However, this acceptance of chalk needs further examination, especially considering the evolving formulations of chalk products and the practice of brushing holds after each climb. Is brushing truly effective, and are we fully aware of the long-term effects of even “traditional” chalk?
This isn’t an indictment of specific brands like C.A.M.P., who produce block chalk with rosin, or 8cPlus, known for similar products. The issue is broader than individual companies. The widespread availability of white-label liquid chalk, especially after the pandemic-driven surge in demand for gym-friendly options, is a significant concern. Many of these generic liquid chalks contain pine resin. Why? Because resin acts as a cheap thickener, keeping the chalk particles suspended and creating a smooth, appealing texture.
While rosin-infused chalk has been used in other sports and activities to enhance grip, its application in climbing, particularly outdoors, is problematic. Imagine rosin-based liquid chalk being used on popular outdoor routes and boulder problems. The potential for holds to become caked in a sticky, unnatural residue is very real.
Even indoors, where some might argue that new, sharp holds could benefit from a slight reduction in texture, rosin-based liquid chalk presents challenges. A Climbing Magazine article highlighted this issue, noting that route setters observed V2 boulder problems becoming as hard as V5 within weeks due to the reduced friction caused by resin buildup. While polished holds might offer a unique training benefit, the rapid and unintended alteration of hold texture due to rosin is not desirable for gyms or outdoor crags. Resin removal requires intensive deep-cleaning methods, adding time and cost to gym maintenance.
The prevalence of rosin in liquid chalk is surprisingly widespread. Brands like Black Diamond, Petzl, and Mammut have been identified as using rosin in some of their liquid chalk products. Conversely, companies like Friction Labs, Evolv, and Wild Country explicitly state they avoid rosin in their formulations. Furthermore, companies like Midnight Lightning and Chalk Rebels are actively promoting eco-friendly chalk options and openly campaigning against rosin use, emphasizing the importance of ingredient transparency. Many brands, however, remain opaque about their ingredients, making informed consumer choices difficult. It’s essential for climbers to investigate and check ingredient lists themselves to understand what they are applying to the rock.
Ultimately, the climbing community needs to be more aware of the ingredients in climbing chalk, especially liquid chalk. Choosing rosin-free options and supporting transparent brands are steps towards responsible climbing practices that protect both indoor and outdoor climbing environments. Understanding the potential long-term impact of chalk and its additives is crucial for preserving the integrity of climbing holds and the natural beauty of our crags for future generations.
