It’s a special experience to encounter a winemaker who deeply understands their vineyard and AVA, possessing intimate knowledge of each vine and the soil, and acknowledging the unique character of every vintage. This profound understanding comes from years of dedicated farming on the same land with a consistent team, embracing each harvest with accumulated wisdom and experience. This is precisely what I discovered during an enchanting evening spent with Elizabeth Vianna, the esteemed Winemaker at Chimney Rock Winery.
Front view of Chimney Rock Winery's architecture
Chimney Rock Winery, a gem nestled in the renowned Stag’s Leap District of Napa Valley, is a testament to vision and dedication. Founded in 1984 by Hack Wilson, a former Pepsi executive, the winery’s story is as captivating as its wines. Originally contemplating a venture in Bordeaux, Wilson was wisely guided towards the unique terroir of Stag’s Leap, recognizing its exceptional potential. He and his wife, Stella, were pioneers, purchasing an 18-hole golf course in what was then not yet an official AVA. Transforming the landscape, the first nine holes were converted into vineyards, and the winery itself was constructed with a distinctive South African architectural style, inspired by Wilson’s time working for Pepsi.
As the years progressed, and with Wilson’s children pursuing different paths, the Terlato family joined as partners, ensuring the winery’s legacy would continue. Following Hack Wilson’s passing in 2001, the Terlato family assumed full ownership of Chimney Rock Winery in 2004. Their commitment to excellence led to the planting of the remaining nine holes, revealing soils rich in volcanic composition, further enhancing the estate’s potential. The year 2000 marked a visual evolution for the winery, with the label design shifting to showcase the vineyards, a poignant change as the original Wilson family home tragically succumbed to the devastating fires of 2017.
Elizabeth Vianna and team at Chimney Rock Winery
In its near four-decade history of crafting exceptional wines, Chimney Rock Winery has benefited from the stewardship of only three winemakers, a remarkable testament to consistency and vision. The inaugural vintages of 1984 and 1985 were expertly guided by the celebrated winemaker Philip Togni. Doug Fletcher then took the reins for an impressive 22 years, a period marked by meticulous viticultural practices, including the crucial replanting of vineyards after the Phylloxera devastation, ensuring the right varietals thrived in the ideal locations. Elizabeth Vianna stands as the third in this distinguished lineage, having dedicated 17 years to shaping the character and quality of Chimney Rock Winery wines.
Elizabeth Vianna’s journey to winemaking is as intriguing as the wines she creates. Born in Brazil, she spent her formative years between the East Coast of the United States and Brazil. Initially harboring aspirations for a career in medicine, she embarked on pre-med studies at Vassar College. However, during this time, a burgeoning passion for wine began to take root, ignited by the generosity of a friend’s father who possessed an extensive wine cellar and introduced her to exceptional bottles.
This pivotal experience redirected her academic pursuits towards the art and science of winemaking, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon. She pursued viticulture and enology at UC Davis, culminating in a master’s degree in enology. Her connection with Chimney Rock Winery began in 1999 as a harvest intern. Elizabeth further honed her skills at Napa Wine Co, working alongside prominent female winemakers Heidi Barrett, Pam Starr, and Celia Masyczek. An interesting turn of events led to her promotion to assistant winemaker at Chimney Rock Winery, succeeding the previous assistant winemaker who chose to pursue midwifery. Seventeen years ago, Elizabeth Vianna realized her winemaking destiny, being appointed as the Winemaker for Chimney Rock Winery.
Chimney Rock Winery's diverse wine selection
Today, Chimney Rock Winery encompasses 103 acres (40 hectares) of planted vineyards, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, alongside Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and a limited production of Fiano. Their estate vineyards flourish in the Stag’s Leap District, complemented by Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris vines in Rutherford.
Elizabeth emphasizes the collaborative nature of winemaking at Chimney Rock Winery, highlighting “the six pairs of hands” that contribute to each bottle. This tight-knit team boasts an impressive average tenure of 15 years, fostering a consistent winemaking style, a deep connection to the vineyards, and a shared understanding of the nuanced preparations required for each vintage. This strong sense of community extends to the broader Napa winemaking circle, further enriching their approach.
Drawing a fascinating parallel between music and winemaking, Elizabeth shares, “Love and sense of music aesthetics made me understand wine.” She believes both evoke an emotional response. Chimney Rock Winery recently hosted an event featuring renowned cellist Sara Sant’ambrogio, pairing wine with the evocative power of live music.
Chimney Rock Winery's vintage wine collection
“My job is to let the vineyards speak,” Elizabeth articulates, encapsulating her winemaking philosophy. “I want to understand the vineyards and convey their story in each particular vintage. Balance is paramount to preserving varietal character.” She observes a shift in Napa winemaking, noting a move back towards balance after a period where extended hang time was favored by some critics. Sharing an insightful anecdote, Elizabeth recounts an experience where delaying the picking time for certain vineyards, guided by intuition and weather patterns, resulted in some of their most exceptional wines. “Mother nature brought us back to center,” she reflects.
Chimney Rock Winery's historical timeline
An extraordinary highlight of the evening was a vertical tasting journey through Chimney Rock Winery’s history, sampling wines from their inaugural 1984 vintage to the more recent releases. This tasting unfolded as a narrative of Napa Valley wine evolution, reflecting the influences of different winemakers, microclimates, alcohol levels, and the ever-present hand of Mother Nature.
The artistry of Chimney Rock Winery's wine presentation
The tasting included a remarkable selection: Chimney Rock Winery Stag’s Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon from 1984, 1985, 1992, 1998, 2002, 2006, and 2012; the 2019 and 2020 Elevage, their proprietary white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris; and the 2018 Chimney Rock Winery Tomahawk Cabernet Sauvignon, a single-vineyard expression.
While detailed tasting notes are beyond the scope here, the experience revealed the captivating diversity arising from microclimates, weather variations, and evolving industry trends, all contributing to the unique personality of each vintage. Personal favorites emerged, notably the 1984 and the 2018 Tomahawk, both showcasing exceptional character. The true revelation was the distinctiveness of each wine, a testament to the vineyard’s voice and the winemaker’s artistry.
The future of Chimney Rock Winery under Elizabeth Vianna’s continued direction is undoubtedly bright, promising further expressions of the unique terroir and unwavering dedication to quality that define this Stag’s Leap District icon.
