Nestled in the renowned Stag’s Leap District of Napa Valley, Chimney Rock Winery stands as a testament to the region’s exceptional terroir and commitment to crafting world-class wines. My recent visit with Elizabeth Vianna, the talented winemaker at Chimney Rock, provided a fascinating glimpse into the philosophy and passion behind these celebrated wines, particularly during that sweet spot post-vintage, when the year’s harvest is secured, and the intensity of winemaking eases.
Chimney Rock’s story is as captivating as its wines. Founded in 1984 by Hack Wilson, a former Pepsi executive, the winery’s origins are quite unique. Wilson, inspired by his time establishing Pepsi plants across 19 African countries, particularly South Africa, purchased an 18-hole golf course. He ingeniously transformed the first nine holes into a vineyard and constructed a striking Cape Dutch-style winery, a nod to the architecture he admired from his time abroad.
The initial vineyard plantings faced early challenges. Grafted onto AXR rootstock, which proved vulnerable to phylloxera, the vines required replanting. Viticulturist Doug Fletcher took the helm during this critical phase, meticulously replanting with phylloxera-resistant rootstock and matching varietals to the ideal locations within the estate. Today, Chimney Rock boasts 103 acres (40 hectares) under vine, predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon, alongside Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. Expanding beyond their estate, Chimney Rock also cultivates Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris in Rutherford, encompassing 6.8 and 1.6 acres respectively.
Elizabeth Vianna’s journey to Chimney Rock is equally compelling. Born in Brazil and raised between the USA’s East Coast and Brazil, Elizabeth’s initial aspirations leaned towards medicine. Pre-med studies at Vassar College and subsequent work at Cornell Medical School Hospital, involving sophisticated analytical equipment like GC-MS and liquid chromatography, inadvertently paved her path to winemaking. It was through wine tastings, ignited by a friend’s father’s impressive wine cellar, that her passion for wine blossomed. A pivotal moment at a Christie’s pre-auction tasting, holding a glass of Sociando Mallet 1985 while conversing with Christian Moeiux, solidified her decision at age 29 to pursue winemaking. Her expertise with GC-MS became her entry ticket to UC Davis, where she studied viticulture and enology. For the past 12 years, Elizabeth has been the winemaker at Chimney Rock, bringing her unique perspective and scientific background to the art of winemaking.
The ownership of Chimney Rock also evolved. In 2001, the Terlato family became partners with the Wilsons. Following Hack Wilson’s passing in 2001, Terlato Family Vineyards assumed full ownership in 2004. They completed the vineyard development by planting the remaining nine holes of the former golf course. Ironically, the well-drained volcanic soils that proved less than ideal for golf became the foundation for exceptional vineyards.
Elizabeth articulates her winemaking philosophy with clarity: “My job is to be an interpreter. I want to get to know the vineyards and tell their tale in a particular vintage. I’m an opponent of over-engineered wines.” Her approach is minimalist, intervening only when necessary, such as occasionally adding tartaric acid or inoculating with yeasts. She emphasizes balance and fruit purity, stating, “I don’t like super-ripe fruit. Fruit integrity is an important component of retaining varietal character. Hang time got away from Napa winemakers: now they are moving back towards balance.”
She illustrates this philosophy with the example of the Midas block within the Chimney Rock estate. “When I started, we picked it last, waiting for the chalky tannins to evolve. We’d get dehydration and it would make lousy wine. Then one year we decided to pick as soon as it had lost the pyrazines, ignoring the chalky tannins. It has made the best wine since.” This anecdote underscores her belief that intuition and intimate knowledge of the vineyards are paramount in determining optimal picking times, often surpassing reliance solely on tasting fruit.
Our tasting focused on two distinctive Chimney Rock wines: the Elevage Blanc, a unique white blend, and the Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, a flagship red.
The Elevage Blanc is Elizabeth’s interpretation of a Bordeaux-style white, skillfully blending Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. Recognizing that Semillon doesn’t thrive as well in Napa, she opted for Sauvignon Gris as the ideal blending partner for Sauvignon Blanc. The winemaking process is meticulous, employing gentle whole bunch pressing using a Champagne cycle to minimize phenolic extraction from the skins. Elizabeth utilizes eight different cultured yeasts, finding natural fermentation too unpredictable, emphasizing, “It’s remarkable how much impact yeasts can have on acidity, aromatics and body.” Fermentation occurs in a combination of new and used oak barrels, along with stainless steel barrels of 70 gallons, facilitating lees stirring without imparting oak flavors. The wine undergoes malolactic fermentation to avoid sterile filtration, preserving the textural richness gained from battonage.
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc 2010 Napa, California
An elegant blend of 88% Sauvignon Blanc and 12% Sauvignon Gris, aged for 5 months on lees. This vintage from a cooler Napa year exhibits freshness and definition, with seamlessly integrated oak. The nose reveals notes of pear, quince, and citrus, accented by a floral lift. The palate is refined and delicate, showcasing remarkable finesse. 93/100
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc 2009 Napa, California
A more generous blend of 59% Sauvignon Blanc and 41% Sauvignon Gris. This vintage is textured and expansive, displaying luscious white peach and pear notes, complemented by well-integrated oak. Delicacy and finesse are hallmarks, alongside a ripe, smooth texture, defined structure, and subtle nutty nuances. 93/100
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc 2008 Napa, California
Composed of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Sauvignon Gris, this vintage is riper and warmer, showcasing sweet pear and peach fruit, intertwined with nutty and toasty notes. Broad and full-bodied, it offers a smooth texture, depth, and richness. 91/100
Chimney Rock Elevage Blanc 2007 Napa, California
This vintage is vibrant and fresh, with a grapefruit and tangerine zest highlighting the rich, rounded, and subtly nutty fruit. A touch of toasty evolution adds complexity. Ripe, smooth, and thoroughly satisfying. 92/100
The Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, sourced from the southern part of the Stag’s Leap District, expresses a distinctive red fruit profile. These 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wines, produced in small quantities of 500-800 cases, are characterized by their youthfulness, linearity, and purity, suggesting excellent aging potential.
Chimney Rock Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa, California
Fermented with 26 days of skin contact and aged for 18 months in 75% new oak. This vintage is ripe and concentrated, with generous black cherry and blackberry fruit, underpinned by warm, spicy oak. Sweetly fruited with good definition, it presents a pleasingly approachable and delicious character in its youth. 91/100
Chimney Rock Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Napa, California
Extended skin contact of 35 days, followed by 20 months in French oak (70% new). Fresh and defined, this vintage reveals sweet pastille and red cherry fruit. Good structure and a spicy edge contribute to its suppleness and directness, showcasing elegance alongside ripeness. 92/100
Chimney Rock Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Napa, California
Fermented with 30 days of skin contact and aged in 70% new oak, with a 14.7% alcohol level. This vintage is intensely attractive, with sweet, ripe blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. Good weight and concentration are balanced by a supple texture and a hint of minty freshness. Excellent balance and structure are evident, with a subtle chocolatey richness emerging. 92/100
Chimney Rock Tomahawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa, California
Aged for 18 months in 75% new French oak. This vintage offers fresh berry fruits, with blackcurrant notes adding complexity. Lovely purity and balance are present, with a fresh and supple palate, good weight, and excellent definition. It remains youthful and linear in its profile. 92/100
Chimney Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Napa, California
A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot. This vintage is beautifully ripe, with sweet red berry and blackcurrant fruit, exhibiting excellent definition. Lovely structure provides definition, alongside sweet fruit. Pure and fresh, it demonstrates significant potential for future development. 94/100
Chimney Rock Cabernet Franc 2009 Napa, California
Fresh, vibrant, and bright, this Cabernet Franc showcases red berry and cherry fruit, supported by lively acidity. Very pure and energetic, with vivid tannic structure. The freshness is particularly appealing. 93/100
Chimney Rock Winery, with its stunning setting, dedicated winemaker, and exceptional wines, truly embodies the elegance and quality of Napa Valley’s Stag’s Leap District. Exploring their portfolio is a journey through the nuances of Napa terroir and the artistry of winemaking.
