Embark on a captivating 14.5-mile journey along the Appalachian Trail, traversing the scenic Humpback Mountain and descending towards Rockfish Gap in Virginia. This section offers breathtaking panoramic views, a tranquil campsite by Mill Creek, and a rich tapestry of natural and historical wonders. Perfect for an overnight backpacking trip, this trail promises an unforgettable experience for outdoor enthusiasts.
The adventure begins after a hearty breakfast at the Thunderbird Café, setting the stage for a 40-minute drive to the trailhead. Strategically parking one car near the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) crossing of I-64 and Rt250, and another at the Dripping Rock parking area (mile 9.6 on the BRP) streamlines the logistics of this point-to-point hike. Dripping Rock, named after a small spring, historically served as a vital water source for Monocan Indians traveling to summer hunting grounds.
Image: A hiker, Adam, is shown traversing the rocky terrain of Humpback Mountain on the Appalachian Trail in Virginia, showcasing the challenging yet rewarding hiking experience.
The Appalachian Trail gracefully ascends from the Dripping Rock parking area, welcoming hikers into a serene woodland setting. Almost immediately, an unexpected treat – “trail magic” – appears alongside the path. A cooler, brimming with granola bars, ibuprofen, a log book, a camera, and a whiteboard for hikers to document their journey, offers a delightful surprise. Further along, two-liter bottles of refreshing tap water from Wintergreen Resort stand as another act of trail kindness, especially valuable during drier seasons when natural water sources can be scarce. A cautionary sign near a spring-fed water source reminds hikers to filter or boil water, humorously depicting a moose, an unlikely source of water contamination in Virginia.
Adam Hiking on Humpback Mountain Trail
Image: A hiker named Adam is captured climbing the southern side of Humpback Mountain, highlighting the uphill section of the Appalachian Trail with rock walls visible along the path.
Day 1: Summiting Humpback Mountain and Discovering Battery Cliff
Day one unfolds with a gradual uphill trek along the flank of Humpback Mountain. Numerous inviting campsites dot the trail, promising future overnight stays. As the elevation increases, the forest canopy begins to thin, revealing breathtaking vistas. The anticipation for panoramic views, initially modest, is soon exceeded. While Humpback Rocks, a well-known viewpoint accessible via a side trail, was considered for lunch, the rocky spine of Humpback Mountain itself unveils even more spectacular scenery. These overlooks, located approximately 2.5 miles from Humpback Rocks, offer a more secluded and pristine experience, free from crowds and urban noise.
Hiker enjoying Wintergreen View from Humpback Mountain
Image: A hiker, Christine, is pictured enjoying the expansive view overlooking Wintergreen Resort from an outcropping on Humpback Mountain, emphasizing the scenic beauty of the Appalachian Trail.
Pausing to shed heavy packs, hikers can fully immerse themselves in the stunning panorama. The Priest, Three Ridges, and the slopes of Wintergreen Resort dominate the horizon. This viewpoint, aptly named Battery Cliff, earns its title from the distant condos of Wintergreen Resort, resembling fortifications. The cliffs themselves are composed of Catoctin greenstone, formed during ancient volcanic eruptions. Standing on these ancient rocks, gazing towards Wintergreen, one looks across the former path of the Appalachian Trail. Prior to 1983, five miles of the trail traversed the resort. However, land sales to private developers prompted the Appalachian Trail Conservancy to swiftly secure funds and reroute the trail to its current, preserved location across Humpback Mountain, ensuring the trail’s continuity and protection.
Hiker Admiring Wintergreen Resort View from Humpback Mountain
Image: A hiker, Adam, is shown checking out the scenic view of Wintergreen Resort from Humpback Mountain, highlighting the pretty and extensive views available along this section of the Appalachian Trail.
Leaving the exposed ridge, the trail re-enters the woods, following an impressive “hog wall” – a long stone wall built pre-Parkway era to delineate property and manage livestock. Reaching a trail junction, the option to detour to Humpback Rock presents itself. However, opting to continue towards the day’s destination, the well-trodden path descends, bypassing the potentially crowded Humpback Rock.
Hog Wall along Appalachian Trail near Humpback Mountain
Image: Hiker Adam is walking along a historic hog wall, one of many stone structures found along the Appalachian Trail in the Humpback Mountain area, indicating the area’s past land use.
Lunch beckons, and suitably flat boulders beside the trail become the dining spot. Apples, peanut butter, cheese, and energy bars replenish energy as fellow hikers pass by, a couple with a dog and a visitor from JMU’s family weekend. The day’s hiker count remains remarkably low, enhancing the sense of solitude on this beautiful Sunday.
The afternoon’s 5.5-mile descent towards the Paul C. Wolfe shelter is gentle and enjoyable. At the base of Humpback Mountain, the Appalachian Trail intersects with the historic Howardsville Turnpike, a pre-Civil War toll road now embraced by the forest, yet still retaining the wide, level character of a former thoroughfare. Continuing along the Appalachian Trail, a sign marks the access trail to Glass Hollow overlook. A short detour leads to stunning rocky viewpoints, offering clearer and more expansive vistas compared to a previous visit two years prior.
Panoramic View from Glass Hollow Overlook on Appalachian Trail
Image: A scenic shot capturing hikers taking in the panoramic view from Glass Hollow Overlook, emphasizing the beauty and wide vistas available along the Appalachian Trail section.
Resuming the northbound path, the trail passes the junction with the Albright Loop Trail, a popular day hike leading back to Humpback Rocks parking. Continuing on the Appalachian Trail, the descent of Dobie Mountain commences, marked by well-graded switchbacks and occasional valley views. The sound of running water signals the proximity of Mill Creek and the day’s destination: the Paul C. Wolfe shelter. This shelter stands out as exceptionally pleasant, boasting a picturesque location, a porch picnic table, and bright sidelights, a welcome contrast to many darker, gloomier shelters. A quirky privy with a half-door offers both a view and a potential lack of privacy.
Trail Lunch and AT Logos on Deadfall
Image: A collage showing a trail lunch scene, Appalachian Trail logos carved on deadfall, and a pretty trail with late-season wildflowers, illustrating various aspects of the hiking experience.
Arriving as the first campers, a prime campsite near Mill Creek is secured, complete with a fire pit and bear pole. Camp setup and chores follow, with Mill Creek providing a readily accessible and pristine water source.
Riverside Campsite at Mill Creek on Appalachian Trail
Image: A view of a nice campsite located along Mill Creek, showcasing the tranquil and desirable camping spots available for hikers on the Appalachian Trail.
Dinner is enjoyed at the shelter’s picnic table – pepper steak, wine, and dark chocolate cheesecake. As dusk settles, a southbound thru-hiker named Nightwalker joins the camp, recounting his impressive 30-mile day. Conversations ensue, marveling at his trail-hardened appearance and candy corn and Skittles fueled diet. As darkness deepens and temperatures drop, a small campfire provides warmth before retiring to bed around 9:00 PM. A chilly night ensues, with one camper briefly waking to adjust tent flaps against the cold.
Campfire at Campsite on Appalachian Trail
Image: A cozy campfire burning at a campsite, illustrating the relaxing evening ambiance of camping on the Appalachian Trail after a day of hiking.
Day 2: Elk Mountain Climb and Descent to Rockfish Gap
Day two commences at first light, the thru-hikers still asleep. A quiet breakfast of oatmeal, cheese, coffee, and hot chocolate is prepared by the fire pit. Camp is packed up, and hikers are back on the trail within 45 minutes, ready to tackle the day’s challenges.
The morning begins with a steep ascent up Elk Mountain. Directly behind the shelter, the trail climbs sharply via switchbacks, gaining approximately 1000 feet in just a mile. The remainder of the day’s hike is more moderate, transitioning to a gentle downhill grade.
Paul C. Wolfe Shelter and Steep Climb on Appalachian Trail
Image: A view of the Paul C. Wolfe Shelter, with a focus on the steep climb that marks the beginning of Day 2 for hikers, indicating the challenging terrain ahead.
The five miles leading back to Rockfish Gap are characterized by peaceful woodland walking, punctuated by small stream crossings and the ruins of an old cabin approximately 1.7 miles north of Paul C. Wolfe shelter. The cabin’s chimney and hearth remain standing beside the trail. While a Lowe family cemetery and additional cabin ruins are rumored to exist east of the trail, they remain unseen. The trail culminates at Route 250 in Rockfish Gap, exiting through a guardrail opening. Here, thru-hikers find lists of trail angels, highlighting Waynesboro’s well-organized support network, offering rides and shelter.
Remnants of Mayo Cabin along Appalachian Trail
Image: The remnants of an old cabin situated right along the Appalachian Trail, showcasing historical aspects encountered during the hike.
Arriving back at the car around 10:30 AM, thoughts turn to lunch. Devil’s Backbone Brewery, conveniently located nearby, provides the perfect post-hike reward. Beers, a large pretzel, and sandwiches (French Dip and BBQ) replenish spent calories. The return route via Rt. 151 passes Bold Rock Cidery, a worthwhile stop for cider enthusiasts. A Monday visit allows for a behind-the-scenes tour of the cider pressing and bottling facilities, a unique and enjoyable experience.
Approaching Rockfish Gap and Trail Angels
Image: A view of hikers approaching Rockfish Gap, with Rt. 250 visible and a mention of Waynesboro’s network of trail angels who assist hikers, providing context for the trail’s end point.
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Enjoying Post-Hike Beer at Devil’s Backbone Brewery
Image: The tasting room at Bold Rock Cidery, showcasing a place for post-hike refreshments and relaxation after completing the Appalachian Trail section.
[Enjoying Post-Hike Beer at Devil’s Backbone Brewery
Image: Hikers enjoying post-hike beers at Devil’s Backbone Brewery, illustrating a typical and enjoyable way to conclude a hiking trip on the Appalachian Trail.
Trail Notes
- Distance: 14.5 miles (Day One: 9.5 miles, Day Two: 5 miles)
- Elevation Change: Day One: 1800 ft, Day Two: 1100 ft
- Difficulty: 2 (Easy backpacking with moderate climbing)
- Trail Conditions: 4.5 (Excellent shape)
- Views: 4 (Beautiful from Humpback Mountain and Glass Hollow)
- Streams/Waterfalls: 3 (Mill Creek is a great water source)
- Wildlife: 2 (Deer, owls)
- Navigation: 4 (Easy to follow white blazes)
- Solitude: 4 (Low hiker traffic, especially avoiding Humpback Rock crowds)
Download Trail Map (PDF)
Directions to Trailhead: Blue Ridge Parkway to mile 9.6, Dripping Rock parking area.
