Portland Rock Gym Inc: Rules and Waiver for Safe Climbing

Welcome to Portland Rock Gym Inc! Your safety and enjoyment are our top priorities. To ensure a positive and secure climbing environment for everyone, it’s essential that all visitors understand and adhere to our gym rules and waiver policies. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or a first-time visitor, please take the time to carefully read the following guidelines. By understanding and respecting these rules, you contribute to a safer and more enjoyable experience for yourself and the entire Portland Rock Gym community.

Mandatory Waiver for Everyone

Before you step into the climbing area at Portland Rock Gym Inc, it’s imperative to have a signed waiver on file. This rule applies to every single person entering the gym area, without exception. No waiver, no entry – it’s that simple. This policy is in place to protect both our climbers and our facility, ensuring everyone is aware of the inherent risks associated with rock climbing and agrees to our terms of participation.

Youth Policy at Portland Rock Gym Inc

Portland Rock Gym Inc is a family-friendly facility and we encourage young climbers to explore the sport in a safe and controlled environment. However, specific guidelines are in place for youth climbers to ensure their safety and well-being:

1. Waiver Requirement for Minors: For all climbers under the age of 18, a waiver must be signed by a parent or legal guardian before they are permitted to climb. This is a non-negotiable requirement for youth participation at Portland Rock Gym Inc.

2. Supervision for Young Bouldering: Climbers under 14 years old must be actively supervised by a trained and experienced adult when in the bouldering area. This ensures that younger climbers are monitored and guided in this area where falls are more direct and require spatial awareness. Exceptions to this rule may be considered for children with Annual Memberships who demonstrate significant climbing experience, subject to assessment and approval by Portland Rock Gym Inc staff.

3. Chaperone Requirement: Youth under 14 years old are not allowed in Portland Rock Gym Inc without a chaperone. Furthermore, to ensure the safety of all climbers, individuals must be at least 14 years of age to participate in top-rope belaying and lead belaying activities.

Comprehensive Gym Rules for Portland Rock Gym Inc

To maintain a risk-free environment as much as possible at Portland Rock Gym Inc, adherence to the following rules is mandatory. These rules are designed to cover all aspects of climbing and gym usage, promoting safety and respect within our climbing community.

General Climbing Rules

1. Waiver is Essential: Every participant must complete and sign a Portland Rock Gym, Inc. (“PRG”) liability waiver before engaging in any activities. For minors aged 17 years or younger, this waiver must be signed by a parent or legal guardian.

2. Belay Approval and Card: Belaying at Portland Rock Gym Inc is restricted to those who have received belay approval from our staff and are wearing a visible PRG belay card on the back of their harness while belaying. This ensures that all belayers meet our safety standards.

3. No Unauthorized Belay Instruction: Teaching belaying techniques to others is strictly prohibited, regardless of your personal belaying expertise. Belay instruction is to be conducted only by authorized Portland Rock Gym Inc staff.

4. Supervision of Children: Children under 14 must be actively supervised by an instructor or parent at all times within the gym. Without belay supervision, they are restricted to climbing no higher than head height.

5. Belay System Usage: A belay system is mandatory when climbing higher than six (6) feet above the floor (measured at foot level). This rule is in place to protect climbers from falls at height.

6. Approved Harness Required: Climbers and belayers must use a UIAA/CE approved rock climbing harness that is in good condition, as defined by the harness manufacturer’s guidelines. Regular equipment checks are crucial for safety.

7. PRG Approved Belay Devices: Only Portland Rock Gym Inc approved assisted braking belay devices are permitted. These include models like Petzl Grigri, Mammut Smart, Edelrid MegaJul, Beal Birdie, Black Diamond Pilot, and Trango Virgo. Using approved devices ensures compatibility with our safety protocols.

8. Attentive Belaying: Belayers are required to be fully attentive and free from distractions while belaying. This means no sitting, lying down, or engaging in conversations that divert attention. Cell phone use is restricted to the lobby and cubby areas. Flash photography is not allowed in the climbing areas as it can be distracting and potentially dangerous.

9. No Climbing Above or Below Others: Climbing or traversing above or below other climbers or route setters is prohibited to prevent accidents from falls or dropped objects.

10. Awareness of Fall Trajectories: Climbers must be aware of the potential fall trajectory of other climbers, especially on lead walls and overhangs. Maintain a safe distance and stand clear. If you are climbing and foresee a potential hazard to others if you were to fall, communicate this immediately. Spectators should remain within the designated areas marked by red lines on the floor.

11. Lead Route Occupancy: Occupied lead routes must have an open anchor on either side to ensure safe spacing and prevent interference between climbing parties.

12. Appropriate Footwear: Bare feet and lug-soled boots/shoes are not permitted on the climbing walls. Climbing shoes or clean athletic shoes are required to protect the wall surface and climbing holds.

13. Substance-Free Climbing: Alcohol and drugs are strictly prohibited at Portland Rock Gym Inc. Climbing is not allowed if you are under the influence or using prescription drugs that could impair your alertness or coordination. Your safety and the safety of others are paramount.

14. No Loose Items: Climbers are not allowed to have anything in their pockets or drop items from the wall. Secure all personal items before starting your climb.

15. Report Unsafe Conditions: Any unsafe condition, including damaged equipment, wall damage, loose holds, accidents, or injuries, must be reported to gym staff immediately. Prompt reporting helps maintain a safe environment for everyone.

16. No Food or Drink in Climbing Areas: Food and drinks are not allowed in the climbing areas to keep the space clean and prevent spills that could create slippery or unsafe conditions.

17. Privacy in Locker Rooms: Cameras or smartphones are not permitted in the locker rooms or restrooms to protect the privacy of our members and guests.

18. No Running: Running is not allowed within Portland Rock Gym Inc. Maintaining a controlled pace helps prevent accidents and ensures a safe environment for all.

Lead Belaying Specific Rules

1. Lead Belay Approval and Card: Lead climbers and belayers must receive specific approval from Portland Rock Gym Inc staff to lead climb and belay. They must also wear a PRG lead belay card on the back of their harness while engaged in these activities.

2. Correct Lead Techniques: Leaders must use correct climbing and clipping techniques, which include:

   • a) Ensuring the rope is not behind the leg.
   • b) Avoiding back clipping.
   • c) Preventing Z clipping.
   • d) Clipping all quick draws and anchors on lead walls.

3. Attentive Lead Belaying: Belayers must maintain constant attentiveness while on belay. Distractions such as sitting, lying down, or conversations are not permitted.

4. Spacing on Lead Routes: Leaders must not lead climb on routes immediately adjacent to an already occupied route to prevent potential rope tangles or collisions during falls.

5. Top-Roping Lead Routes: To top-rope on a lead route, both anchor bolts and the top four bolts must be properly clipped.

6. No Intentional Lead Falls or Hanging Quickdraws: Intentional lead falls are prohibited, and climbers may not hang their own quickdraws unless specifically authorized by staff. Consult with Portland Rock Gym Inc staff for exceptions.

7. Spotting Lead Climbers: Lead belayers are required to spot climbers until they have successfully clipped the first bolt to minimize ground fall risks at the start of a climb.

8. Belayer Positioning: Lead belayers must stay within arm’s reach of the wall for the first four clips and remain within eight feet of the first clip thereafter. This positioning ensures effective and responsive belaying during the critical early stages of a lead climb.

9. Continuous Belay Engagement: Lead climbers must remain directly “on belay” at all times when off the ground. Rappelling is not permitted as a method of descent while lead climbing within the gym setting.

10. Down Leading Prohibition: Down leading is not allowed at Portland Rock Gym Inc.

11. Personal Rope Requirement: Leaders must use their own UIAA/CE approved climbing rope that is in good condition, as defined by the rope manufacturer’s guidelines. Regular rope inspection and maintenance are essential for safety.

Bouldering Area Rules

1. Bouldering Orientation: All climbers must receive an orientation from Portland Rock Gym Inc staff before using the bouldering area. This orientation covers safety protocols and bouldering-specific guidelines.

2. Spatial Awareness: Exercising spatial awareness in the bouldering area is crucial. Be mindful of other climbers and their potential fall zones to avoid collisions.

3. Supervision of Young Bouldering (Repeated for Emphasis): Children under the age of 14 must be actively supervised by an instructor or experienced parent while bouldering, reinforcing the youth policy.

4. Height Limits for Unsupervised Youth Bouldering: Children under 14 must not boulder higher than head height unless they are supervised by an experienced spotter, ensuring controlled risk for younger climbers.

5. Down-Climbing Preference: Down-climbing is encouraged whenever possible in the bouldering area. This method is safer and helps control your descent.

6. No Loitering on Top-Out Boulder: Avoid loitering on the top-out boulder after completing a climb to keep the area clear for others and prevent congestion.

7. No Climbing Up the Down-Climb: Do not climb up the designated down-climb routes. These are meant for descent only to maintain traffic flow and safety.

8. Crash Pad Usage in Rope Areas: Climbers should use a crash pad if bouldering in a rope climbing area to provide additional fall protection.

9. Aim for Center of Crash Pad: When using a crash pad, aim to land in the center of the pad when falling or jumping down to maximize its protective function.

10. Awareness of Others’ Fall Zones: Be continuously aware of the potential fall trajectories of other boulderers around you to maintain a safe spacing and prevent accidents.

11. Yield Right of Way: Yield the right of way to climbers already on the wall. Communication and courtesy are key in a shared climbing space.

12. Spotter Recommendations: Spotters are recommended when climbing 12ft and lower in the bouldering area but are not typically needed when topping out on lower boulders.

13. Spotter Responsibility During Top-Outs: When spotting during top-outs, the spotter’s primary responsibility is to keep the fall zone clear of obstacles and other people.

14. Chalk Policy: Only loose chalk, chalk balls, and chalk pots are allowed in the bouldering area. Liquid chalk is also acceptable. This policy helps maintain air quality and cleanliness.

15. No Harnesses or Weight Vests: Harnesses and weight vests should not be worn while bouldering as they are unnecessary and can pose a hazard in a fall.

16. Empty Pockets: Remove everything from your pockets before bouldering to prevent items from falling out and causing injury or distraction.

17. No Personal Items in Bouldering Area: Water bottles, workout equipment, and other personal items are not allowed in the bouldering area to keep the space clear, safe, and focused on climbing.

Auto-Belay Rules

1. Auto-Belay Orientation Required: You must receive an orientation from Portland Rock Gym Inc staff prior to using the auto-belays. This ensures you understand the correct operation and safety procedures for these devices.

2. Weight Limits: Auto-belays are designed for climbers who weigh between 22lbs and 330lbs. Adhering to these weight limits is crucial for the proper functioning and safety of the auto-belay system.

3. Route Specific Usage: Climbers using an auto-belay must climb only on the routes directly associated with the auto-belay they are clipped into. Climbing on adjacent routes intended for a different auto-belay is not permitted.

4. Auto-Belays Near Lead Routes: Auto-belays located next to lead routes cannot be used when the adjacent lead route is occupied. This prevents potential interference and ensures safety during lead climbing activities.

5. Following Instructions: Climbers using auto-belays should strictly follow the posted instructions for clipping in and out of the auto-belay system. Correct clipping procedures are vital for safety.

Special Note Regarding Headphones

1. Headphone Restriction for Lead Climbers and Belayers: Lead climbers and all belayers are strictly prohibited from wearing headphones. This is essential for maintaining focus and communication in these critical roles.

2. Headphone Use with Awareness: While climbers on top rope, auto-belays, and in the bouldering area may use headphones, they must remain fully aware of their surroundings. Volume levels should be kept low enough to allow others to get their attention if needed for safety or communication purposes.

By following these rules and guidelines, you contribute to a safe, respectful, and enjoyable climbing environment at Portland Rock Gym Inc. We appreciate your cooperation in helping us maintain a premier climbing facility for everyone. Sign your waiver today and get ready to climb!