The whispers of fine dining’s demise have grown louder in recent years. If my recent experience at Tramonto, nestled within the River Rock Casino Resort, is any indication, then perhaps those whispers are turning into a roar. Having heard murmurs of this upscale Italian establishment, even noting its honorable mention in Vancouver Magazine Restaurant Awards, I approached my visit with a sliver of optimism. Could Tramonto be an overlooked gem within the bustling River Rock Casino? Like any diligent reviewer, I ascended the casino’s iconic curved escalator, Canada’s first, hoping for a delightful culinary experience.
My hopes, however, began to dissipate the moment I entered the dining room. “Intimate” would be a generous euphemism; the space felt cramped and dimly lit, a far cry from the airy elegance one expects of fine dining. While I imagine the riverside view might offer a pleasant backdrop during sunset – Tramonto is Italian for sunset, after all – the evening ambiance was less than inspiring. The large windows reflected the harsh interior lighting, the dark wood, and somewhat dated carpeting, creating an atmosphere more akin to a sports bar than a refined restaurant within the River Rock Casino.
Seated under an unforgiving spotlight, illuminating the starched white tablecloth, I couldn’t help but observe a nearby family’s dinner tableau. The patriarch, in a state of blissful repose, was audibly snoring, head tilted back, oblivious to the “five-star setting” Tramonto purports to offer. Brightly colored children’s parkas were draped haphazardly over chairs, despite the presence of a coat check – seemingly underutilized, much like the fine dining aspirations of the restaurant itself within the River Rock Casino.
Tramonto’s self-proclaimed “five-star setting” raises the question: what does that designation even signify in contemporary dining? Traditionally, it evoked images of discreetly attentive staff and hushed, sophisticated environments. To their credit, the servers at Tramonto were indeed attentive, diligently decanting wine and refilling water glasses with almost hawk-like precision. However, the boisterous laughter erupting from a nearby table frequently drowned out their attempts at conversation, forcing them into an uncomfortable proximity just to be heard. I almost considered offering breath mints to one particularly close-talking server.
It seems “fine dining” has relaxed its definition to the point where price is the primary differentiator. At The Globe and Mail, our rating system distinguishes between fine dining and casual based largely on entrée prices. When dishes exceed the $30 mark, we categorize it as fine dining. Tramonto, with its elevated prices, certainly fits this increasingly dubious bill, yet the experience feels decidedly overpriced for what is delivered at this River Rock Casino eatery.
Much like the dated décor, the menu feels stuck in a mid-1990s culinary time capsule. There’s inherent merit in classic cuisine, but execution is paramount. My disappointment began with the saffron risotto, beautifully adorned with a poached lobster tail. Sadly, this potential masterpiece was undermined by a congealed, lukewarm saffron broth, clearly languishing under a heat lamp for far too long. The insult to quality ingredients was palpable.
The beef tenderloin tartare, advertised as “hand-cut,” may indeed have been prepared by hand, but seemingly hours in advance. By the time it reached my table, the truffle-garnished dish had devolved into a milky, mushy texture, the protein structure clearly compromised.
The garganelli pasta, enveloped in a blue cheese cream sauce and accompanied by softly braised short rib, was palatable, though the rib’s sticky glaze felt somewhat out of place in a supposed fine dining context. The lamb rack, encrusted with a garlic-parsley persillade, was thankfully cooked to a commendable medium-rare. A ratatouille-stuffed tomato on the side offered a touch of quaintness, but felt ultimately inconsequential.
Would I choose Tramonto within the River Rock Casino to celebrate a birthday or a significant anniversary? Unequivocally, no. My desire to depart was immediate, bypassing even the dessert menu.
While the allure of true fine dining – those exceptional establishments where guests are treated with utmost care and the cuisine inspires genuine awe – will likely never vanish completely, Tramonto, in its current state within the River Rock Casino, regrettably falls short of that ideal. It serves as a cautionary tale in an evolving dining landscape, suggesting that simply charging high prices does not equate to a truly “fine” dining experience.
