Latrobe, Pennsylvania, a town nestled in the Allegheny Mountains, boasts a rich tapestry of local pride. It’s the birthplace of beloved figures like Arnold Palmer and Mister Rogers, the summer retreat for the Pittsburgh Steelers, and even claims to be the home of the banana split. Yet, for many, Latrobe’s identity is inextricably linked to one enduring symbol: Rolling Rock Beer. While not the first brewery in town, Rolling Rock has become synonymous with Latrobe, shaping its character and earning national recognition in a way few other entities could.
The story begins in 1893 with the founding of the Latrobe Brewing Company. Latrobe, a close-knit community of around 9,000 people at the foot of the Allegheny Mountains, provided the perfect setting. Local lore suggests that Benedictine monks from nearby St. Vincent College, who had established a brewing tradition in the area, served as the town’s first brew masters. Initially operating as an extension of the Pittsburgh Brewing Company, the brewery enjoyed early success until the advent of Prohibition in 1920 forced a temporary halt to operations. However, this was not to be the end of brewing in Latrobe.
During Prohibition, four enterprising local brothers – Frank, Robert, Ralph, and Anthony Tito – took a significant risk. They purchased the dormant brewery, betting on the eventual repeal of Prohibition. Their gamble paid off handsomely. In 1933, with Prohibition lifted, the brewery roared back to life. For the next six years, the Tito brothers focused on brewing Latrobe Old German and Latrobe Pilsner. Then, in 1939, a new star was born: Rolling Rock beer made its debut.
The recipe for Rolling Rock is deceptively simple: water, malt, rice, corn, hops, and brewer’s yeast. The magic, many believe, lies in the local ingredients, particularly the mountain spring water and rice. As the iconic green bottles proclaim, the water comes “…from the mountain streams to you.” This commitment to local sourcing, especially the water, contributes to the extra-pale lager’s distinctive flavor. Some even say the taste subtly shifts from year to year, reflecting the natural sediments flowing from the hills into the brewing reservoir. It’s these very streams, with their beds of smooth stones, that are rumored to have inspired the name “Rolling Rock.” But beyond its taste, Rolling Rock’s mystique is perhaps most deeply intertwined with its distinctive bottles and the enigmatic “mystery” printed on each label.
The painted label of Rolling Rock beer has fueled countless debates and theories among loyal drinkers.
Since its inception, Rolling Rock has been packaged in signature green glass bottles, adorned with white painted lettering. These bottles come in both the standard 12 oz size and the smaller 7 oz “Pony Bottles.” A white pony graces the front label, while the back proudly displays the slogan: “Rolling Rock. From the glass lined-tanks of Old Latrobe we tender this premium beer for your enjoyment, as a tribute to your good taste. It comes from the mountain springs to you. ’33.'” It’s the enigmatic “33” at the end of this slogan that has captivated and puzzled Rolling Rock drinkers for generations. Theories abound, almost as numerous as the beer’s fans. One popular idea suggests “33” was simply a printer’s mark, indicating the word count of the slogan, mistakenly left on the final design. However, countless other explanations have emerged over the years. Some believe it represents the 33 steps within the Latrobe Brewery. Others point to the 33 letters in the list of ingredients. The year Prohibition was repealed, 1933, is another contender. Some even speculate about 33 mountain springs feeding the brewery’s water supply or a connection to Groundhog’s Day, the 33rd day of the year, a significant date in Western Pennsylvania tradition. Intriguingly, even the brewery itself has remained tight-lipped, neither confirming nor denying any of these theories, adding to the enduring mystery of the “33.”
Regardless of the “33” mystery, Rolling Rock became the brewery’s flagship product, its popularity sustaining the business for decades. Remarkably, this success was not driven by aggressive marketing campaigns, a stark contrast to today’s high-volume beverage industry. Well into the 1980s, the Tito family refrained from pushing Rolling Rock as a national brand, relying instead on simple, localized promotions. A favorite tactic was having brewery representatives buy rounds of Rolling Rock at local pubs and taverns. Instead of mass marketing, the family reinvested profits back into the Latrobe facility, expanding production and capacity. This approach perhaps contributed to Rolling Rock’s down-to-earth appeal, resonating deeply with the mill and steel workers of Western Pennsylvania who sought solace and camaraderie over pints after long workdays. Rolling Rock transcended being just a beer; it became a Western Pennsylvania icon, its brand loyalty unshakable, as intrinsically linked to Latrobe as the Steelers were to Pittsburgh in their legendary 1970s era. However, the economic winds of the 1970s, while kind to the Steelers, began to shift against Rolling Rock.
Keith Srakocic/nytimes.com
The widespread appeal of Rolling Rock beer saw thousands of bottles leaving Latrobe Brewery daily, destined for bars and homes across the country.
Rolling Rock’s production peaked in 1974, coinciding with the beer’s 35th anniversary, reaching an impressive 720,000 barrels. However, the Tito family’s reluctance to embrace broader marketing strategies eventually became a disadvantage against industry giants adopting aggressive marketing and innovative packaging. While maintaining a strong regional presence in southwestern Pennsylvania, demand from outside the area waned as consumers gravitated towards trendier beers. Sales began to decline. By 1985, facing falling production, down to approximately 450,000 barrels, and compounded by two labor strikes, the Tito family made the difficult decision to sell the business.
Yet, true to the resilient spirit of Western Pennsylvania, the Latrobe Brewery was not destined to fade away. In 1985, the Sundor Group, a buyout firm, acquired the brewery. Their strategy was to inject a much-needed marketing budget to revive the struggling brewery, with the aim of a quick and profitable resale. However, the Sundor Group overextended itself financially, prioritizing marketing over essential capital investments. While brand awareness and distribution improved, the quality of the beer suffered, a critical misstep for a brand built on local loyalty and consistent quality.
This ownership lasted only briefly. In 1987, Labatt U.S.A. stepped in and acquired the Latrobe Brewery. John Chappell, a brand manager at Labatt, recognized the unique appeal of Rolling Rock’s distinctive packaging and painted green glass bottles. Labatt launched a marketing campaign that emphasized this uniqueness, alongside the iconic slogan emblazoned on every bottle. Labatt’s marketing expertise and expanded distribution network breathed new life into Rolling Rock, propelling its popularity to a national scale. The following fifteen years witnessed double-digit growth and the creation of the Rolling Rock Town Fair, a massive outdoor concert event. This event, initially held in Latrobe, quickly outgrew the town and was moved to Pittsburgh, becoming a high point in Rolling Rock’s history and association with Latrobe. Sadly, this resurgence was not to last in Latrobe.
National attention refocused on Latrobe when Labatt sold its brands, but notably not the Latrobe facility itself, to InBev USA, the American arm of Belgian-based InBev SA. InBev later sold the Rolling Rock brand to Anheuser Busch in May 2006. Shortly after the acquisition, Anheuser Busch made the controversial decision to move Rolling Rock production to Newark, NJ. This announcement sent shockwaves through Latrobe, resulting in hundreds of job losses and a deep sense of betrayal in the community. Even Latrobe’s most famous son, Arnold Palmer, declined to comment publicly on the move, citing the intensity of local feelings.
The pristine water source for Rolling Rock beer is subtly referenced in this vintage bottle cap design from Latrobe Brewery.
Western Pennsylvania has weathered numerous economic storms, particularly in the past four decades. However, the sentiments surrounding the Rolling Rock departure were different, more personal, tinged with nostalgia and a profound sense of loyalty, unlike the more generalized economic anxieties when local mills closed in the 1970s.
“Rolling Rock was the city,” observed Roy Burk, a local business owner, capturing the beer’s central role in Latrobe’s identity.
Joyce Stern, another local restaurant owner, echoed this sentiment shortly after the sale was announced: “It’s an icon. It’s the identity of this town.” The closure meant the loss of the highest-paying jobs in the city and the uprooting of its largest employer, leaving workers scrambling for new opportunities within 60 days. Perhaps the most telling sign of the community’s reaction was the change in lifelong habits.
“A customer who drinks nothing but Rolling Rock came in and switched today to Coors Light,” recounted Crissie Eagle, manager of Frank’s Lounge, a local establishment. While Anheuser Busch continues to grapple with recent sales declines for Rolling Rock, they face a significant backlash in southwestern Pennsylvania, where brand loyalty runs deep.
In the immediate aftermath of the sale, expressions of local sentiment intensified. Interest groups sprang up, formed by passionate beer drinkers and workers’ families, protesting the sale, celebrating the beer’s legacy, and hoping against hope that it wasn’t truly the end for the Latrobe Brewery.
And, mirroring its history of resilience, it wasn’t the end. The Latrobe Brewery was purchased again, this time by City Brewing Company of LaCrosse, Wisconsin. With the enthusiastic support of the Latrobe community and tax incentives from the Pennsylvania government, City Brewing successfully reopened and revitalized the facility. In 2008, City Brewing entered into a contract with the Boston Beer Company to brew Sam Adams beer in Latrobe, and further production agreements followed in 2009. Boston Beer has since expanded its Latrobe operations, including brewing some of its winter seasonal varieties like Sam Adams Oktoberfest, and has invested significantly in modernizing and expanding the brewery.
While Rolling Rock beer may no longer be produced in Latrobe, and the mountain springs on its label now symbolize a replaced heritage in Newark, NJ, the town of Latrobe endures. It stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the region. Production at the brewery is increasing. The Pittsburgh Steelers and their devoted fans still make their annual pilgrimage to Latrobe for summer training camp, supporting local businesses. And the mountain springs continue to flow, their rocky beds rolling stones onward, mirroring the town’s own forward momentum. Rolling Rock may have departed Latrobe, but its legacy remains deeply embedded, and the promise of brewing in Latrobe lives on.
Sources:
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- City Brewing Company. “Latrobe Brewery Questions.” E-mail to the author. 12 Feb. 2009.
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- MacDonald, Bob, and The Globe Staff. “The mystery of Rolling Rock; Short Cuts/The Beer Facts.” The Boston Globe 14 Jan. 1993, City ed., Calendar sec.: 6.
- Mervis, Scott. “Rolling Rockers Town Fair Takes Over Rural Westmoreland With Pie- Eating Contests And Chili Peppers.” Pittsburgh Post-Gazette 4 Aug. 2000, Region ed., Arts & Entertainment sec.: W1.
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