On October 8th, 2023, the annals of Devil’s Lake climbing history were rewritten as Robbie Elsbury achieved a feat only two others had accomplished before him: leading Acid Rock. This route isn’t just any 5.12; it’s the 5.12 at Devil’s Lake State Park, Wisconsin, a crag renowned for its challenging and often psychologically demanding climbs. While Acid Rock may only ascend a mere 40 feet of quartzite, it’s a concentrated test piece that demands respect, even from seasoned climbers.
For most, a top rope ascent of Acid Rock is considered a worthy accomplishment. The route’s precarious nature is amplified by the less-than-reassuring protection options. Traditionally, aspiring leaders contemplate a rack supplemented by “three strong friends,” a strategically placed crash pad to mitigate the daunting exposure of the chasm below, and perhaps a tensioned hook equalized with a diminutive #1 brassie – hardly confidence-inspiring for a lead attempt. The gaping chasm beneath the route further discourages most climbers from even considering leading this notorious line.
However, Robbie Elsbury isn’t “most climbers.” He’s known in local climbing circles as the “Headpoint Aficionado,” a title earned through his consistent pursuit of challenging and mentally strenuous headpoint ascents.
Undeterred by Acid Rock‘s reputation, Robbie geared up for a lead attempt. With a borrowed skyhook adding a touch of aid-climbing ingenuity, and a dedicated safety team comprised of Michael and Sky manning a crucial crash pad across the chasm, and Garrett expertly managing the belay, Robbie embarked on his lead. He skillfully navigated the notoriously tricky “Crouton Check Valve Move,” a technical crux known for its delicate balance and precise footwork. Then, in a heart-stopping moment, the unthinkable happened: a foot slipped.
The air crackled with tension as Robbie plummeted downwards. Garrett reacted instantly, leaping backward from his pedestal belay stance, instinctively using the rope to try and pull Robbie towards the relative safety of the ledge. Sky, with incredible presence of mind, managed to grab the waistbelt of Robbie’s harness with a single hand, halting his fall mere inches from the edge of the pedestal.
Robbie had fallen while leading Acid Rock, a stark reminder of the inherent risks involved in pushing climbing boundaries. Yet, remarkably, he was unharmed.
After the adrenaline subsided and the gravity of the near-miss sunk in, Robbie’s characteristic composure emerged. “Well, that wasn’t supposed to happen,” he quipped, breaking the tension with classic understatement. A brief pause to collect himself, punctuated by shared nervous laughter and a cigarette, followed. Then, with a renewed focus and perhaps a touch of steely resolve, Robbie announced his intention to try again. Cracking a few jokes about his impromptu rescue and expressing gratitude to his attentive belay team, he prepared for a second attempt.
This time, focus and precision prevailed. Robbie once again masterfully executed the “Crouton Move,” maintaining solid foot placement on the critical holds. He swiftly and efficiently equalized his nest of undeniably marginal “body weight only” gear placements and confidently moved into the upper crux of Acid Rock. A collective sigh of relief swept across the belay stance as Robbie executed a powerful move, diving for and latching onto a welcome jug hold, finally reaching a position to place more substantial protection. Looking down at his supportive team, he grinned and exclaimed, “I sure hope I don’t f*** it up now!” His ability to remain relaxed and focused under immense pressure is truly remarkable and a testament to his mental fortitude as a climber.
In a display of skill, determination, and perhaps a touch of audaciousness, Robbie Elsbury successfully bagged a rare lead ascent of Acid Rock, following an even rarer fall from its precarious holds. To call Robbie a “Headpoint Aficionado” might just be the understatement of the year. His ascent of Acid Rock is a testament to his dedication to pushing his limits and solidifies his reputation as a bold and talented climber within the Devil’s Lake climbing community and beyond. This climb serves as a compelling reminder of the challenging nature of acid rock climbs and the commitment required to master them.
