While the Red River Gorge in Kentucky is globally renowned for its overhanging sport climbs and seemingly endless routes on sandstone cliffs, many climbers might be surprised to learn it also harbors a modest but worthwhile selection of crack climbs. If you’re venturing into the Gorge and possess a penchant for the unique challenges and rewards of crack climbing, you’ll find some routes that are definitely worth exploring. These climbs, often found in the Upper Gorge area, offer a different style compared to the typical Red River Gorge experience, demanding a different set of skills and techniques related to this specific Rock Type and formation. Don’t expect splitter cracks for days, but for those who appreciate the art of jamming and gear placement, the Red River Gorge has some hidden gems to offer.
For climbers looking to practice traditional climbing techniques or simply enjoy the distinct nature of crack routes, the Gorge provides a less crowded and equally engaging experience compared to its more famous sport climbing walls. It’s worth noting that while some routes are purely gear-protected, others offer a mixed experience, combining crack climbing with face features and bolt protection, catering to different preferences and skill levels.
Here are a few notable areas and routes where you can discover crack climbing in the Red River Gorge:
Dihedrals Area: Classic Crack Routes
The Dihedrals area is home to some of the most recommended crack climbs in the Red River Gorge. These routes are known for their relatively clean lines and enjoyable crack features, making them a great introduction to Gorge crack climbing.
Life During Wartime (10a)
“Life During Wartime” stands out as a highly recommended route in the Dihedrals. Climbing at a solid 10a grade, it offers a sustained and engaging crack climbing experience. Climbers often praise its quality and the satisfying nature of its moves.
Not Proud Enough to Name (5.8)
For those looking for a more moderate challenge, “Not Proud Enough to Name” (5.8) provides an accessible and enjoyable crack climb. While considered easier, it still offers the essential crack climbing experience and is perfect for warming up or practicing techniques. Despite its name, it’s a route proud enough to be recommended for its crack features.
Cracked Towers: Crack Moves with a View
Located at the edge of the Dihedrals, Cracked Towers offers routes that combine crack features with exposure and scenic views.
Silence of the Poodles (5.8)
“Silence of the Poodles” (5.8) at Cracked Towers is described as having “quite nice crack moves” and is frequently mentioned as a route worth doing. It provides a pleasant climbing experience with crack-specific techniques required to ascend.
Gotham City: Crack Elements on a Popular Wall
Gotham City is more famously known for its sport routes, but it also features crack elements, especially on some of its lower sections.
Dr Evil (Lower Part)
The lower section of the popular and highly-rated sport route “Dr Evil” (5 stars) in Gotham City is noted for being “definitely hand-crackish.” While the route is primarily bolt-protected, the initial part allows climbers to engage with hand-crack climbing techniques before transitioning to the sport climbing above.
All You Can Eat Cliff: A Crack Option
The All You Can Eat cliff, while perhaps not primarily known for cracks, does host at least one route with crack features.
Alfred Hitchcock (5.8)
“Alfred Hitchcock” (5.8) at All You Can Eat cliff is mentioned as an “OK” crack climb. While opinions might vary on its overall quality compared to other Gorge routes, it still offers a crack climbing option in this area.
Upper Elbow Room: Mixed Crack and Face Climbing
Upper Elbow Room presents routes that blend crack and face climbing, providing a more varied climbing experience.
Stella’s Fellas and Kelly’s Heroes
“Stella’s Fellas” and “Kelly’s Heroes” at Upper Elbow Room are described as having “as much crack nature as face climbing.” These routes historically were mixed, requiring both gear and utilizing bolts. It’s mentioned that “Kelly’s Heroes” has now been completely bolted, suggesting “Stella’s Fellas” might retain more of the original mixed or gear-protected character. Both are considered enjoyable routes, offering a blend of climbing styles on the rock type found in the Gorge.
In conclusion, while the Red River Gorge might not be the first destination that comes to mind for crack climbing enthusiasts, it does offer a selection of worthwhile routes for those seeking this style of ascent. From the classic cracks in the Dihedrals to the mixed routes at Upper Elbow Room, there’s enough variety to keep crack climbers engaged and challenged. So, next time you’re in the Red River Gorge, consider exploring these crack climbs and discover a different facet of this renowned climbing destination.
