Spencer Williams had the chance to sit down with Dawn Ritz, the celebrated costume designer, just a day after her 2022 Costume Designers Guild Awards nomination. Their conversation spanned Ritz’s beginnings, her iconic work on Paradise City, her collaborations with Bella Thorne, and her recent nomination for a commercial in the Excellence in Short Form Design category. For fans of bold style and unforgettable stage presence, Ritz’s insights into crafting “The Rock Costume” are pure gold.
Spencer Williams: Dawn Ritz, it’s a true honor! We’re all buzzing about your latest Costume Designers Guild Award nomination!
Dawn Ritz: (Laughing) Thank you! It’s incredibly exciting and such a wonderful moment to share with colleagues and friends.
Dawn Ritz Headshot
Spencer Williams: Absolutely deserved. Your work is so distinctive. When I see a costume, I often think, “That has to be Dawn Ritz!” What shaped your path to becoming such a sought-after costume designer, especially known for your unique rock and roll edge?
Dawn Ritz: That’s a wonderful compliment, thank you! I’ve always admired designers like Tim Burton, who built instantly recognizable visual worlds. I think my style evolved organically, staying true to my artistic instincts. Music is a huge influence. Whether it’s driving visual inspiration or keeping me focused during deadlines, music is always part of my creative process. I aim to tailor my designs to each project, drawing from research, personal interpretation, and close collaboration with directors and artists. Hearing someone recognize my work as distinctly mine – especially within “the rock costume” world – is truly the highest praise. It comes from passion and being fully present in the creative moment. Meditation, particularly transcendental meditation, has also been incredibly influential in enhancing my focus and creativity, something I discovered while working on The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story.
Spencer Williams: The Tim Burton comparison is spot-on. Your projects, like the opening credits for American Horror Story: Coven, are instantly iconic. Speaking of iconic, you designed the costumes for that unforgettable opening sequence!
Dawn Ritz: Yes! American Horror Story really elevated the opening sequence as an art form. Kyle Cooper, the director, and Ryan Murphy have such distinct visions for each season. For Coven, I hadn’t actually watched the show beforehand, which I think was beneficial. It allowed me to bring my own energy, which just aligned perfectly with the show’s vibe.
Spencer Williams: It was a perfect match. I’m thrilled to finally know who created that amazing opening! You’ve also worked with industry titans like Lou Eyrich.
Dawn Ritz: Lou is a magician! Meeting her was a pivotal moment. To work alongside masters of their craft is incredibly special.
The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story
Spencer Williams: Absolutely. Let’s dive into Paradise City. This show, streaming on Amazon Video, is quintessential Dawn Ritz. The costumes just scream your name – especially the “rock costume” elements. It’s clearly a world you thrive in. Tell me about your experience and inspiration for the show.
Dawn Ritz: Paradise City was a dream project! Director Ash Avildsen, from Sumerian Records, is deeply rooted in the rock and roll world. And rock and roll is my world! Growing up, I was in bands and toured. I felt instantly connected to this project. The cast was incredible, a mix of actors and actual rock stars like Cameron Boyce and Booboo Stewart, who are also musicians.
Bella Thorne and Andy Biersack in Paradise City
My approach was highly collaborative, especially with the actors who were musicians. For Bella Thorne, it was pure fun. Her fittings were legendary. I’d present ideas, and she’d amplify them. She’s a true rock and roll Barbie, and she completely embodies the “rock costume” spirit. I saw her perform live – she’s a genuine rock star.
Spencer Williams: It felt so authentic! The heavy rock influence is palpable. What specific inspirations did you draw from for the “rock costume” designs in Paradise City?
Dawn Ritz: Music was key! Driving to set, I’d blast Guns N’ Roses’ “Paradise City” to get in the zone. Inspiration came from across the rock spectrum – classic to contemporary. While my personal rock style informs my work, the focus is always on the character.
Booboo Stewart in Paradise City
For Andy Biersack, lead singer of Black Veil Brides, I designed specifically to his rock star persona. Authenticity was paramount. While Paradise City is set in modern LA, I drew vintage rock and roll elements. Think Led Zeppelin’s timeless style, David Bowie’s innovation, Nirvana’s grunge, The Ramones’ punk edge, Iggy Pop’s raw energy, Slash’s iconic look, and bands like Bring Me the Horizon, Deftones, and Cage the Elephant. I explored 80s rock but avoided making it feel dated, focusing on vintage rock’s enduring appeal for “the rock costume”.
Fairuza Balk in Paradise City
I even went to New York to source custom pieces, like Axel Rose’s jackets, because true rock stars don’t wear off-the-rack. Everything is tailored to their sound and personality. That’s the approach I took for every “rock costume” in Paradise City. Andy’s costumes were meticulously designed, down to Egyptian symbols and custom leather pants.
Andy Biersack in Paradise City
For Bella’s “rock costume,” Lily Mayflower, I drew inspiration from female rock icons like Sean Yseult of White Zombie, Nadja Peulen, and Joan Jett. We explored countless looks, always aiming for authenticity but crafting something unique to Lily.
Bella Thorne in Paradise City
Spencer Williams: The textiles, fabrics, and spikes were incredible! Paradise City was a visual feast. You’ve also built an amazing creative partnership with Bella Thorne, including the Tim Burton-themed Halloween party, nominated for a CDG Award. The Lydia Deetz costume was phenomenal! How did this collaboration begin?
Dawn Ritz: It was instant creative synergy. The costume goddesses aligned us! Bella is exceptionally creative and outside-the-box, just like me.
Bella Thorne in a Dawn Ritz Costume
Our first fitting felt effortless. I always ask about dislikes upfront to guide my designs. With Bella, it was seamless. She’s incredibly fashion-forward and collaborative. We push each other creatively, creating impactful, timeless looks like the Tim Burton Halloween party costumes.
Tim Burton Halloween Theme Party Costumes
That nomination was special because the Tim Burton piece was edgier, a sexier, modern take on those iconic characters. There were initial concerns about its acceptance for nomination. I felt compelled to defend it as art, drawing inspiration from Alexander McQueen’s boundary-pushing, risky yet groundbreaking designs. It resonated, and the nomination was incredibly validating.
Bella Thorne Look 2 by Dawn Ritz
Spencer Williams: Thank you for sharing that. Costume design is art, and art takes risks. You stood up for your vision and for all artists who push creative boundaries.
Dawn Ritz: It was a truly heartwarming moment.
Spencer Williams: Let’s talk about Snoop Dogg’s Triller Fight Club: We’re Bringing Boxing Back video, another CDGA-nominated project. It’s packed with star power. How do you approach a short-form project like that, especially compared to longer projects and the intricate world of “the rock costume”?
Dawn Ritz: It requires a different kind of focus. It was shot over multiple days with incredible talents like Snoop Dogg, Oscar De La Hoya, and Marshmello. Everyone was a master of their craft. Snoop Dogg’s camera presence was effortless. Director Bert Marcus is an Emmy-award winner. It was about working with masters at the top of their game.
Marshmello on the set of Triller Fight Club
To manage it all, I focused on one person at a time, staying present in each moment. The energy on set was electric, the sets and lighting were incredible. It was a gift to be part of that.
Spencer Williams: It’s infectious! Looking ahead, what’s the big picture for Dawn Ritz?
Dawn Ritz: Inclusivity and diversity are key. My Latin background shaped my creative approach. I want to showcase a diverse body of work, avoiding being pigeonholed. Hearing “That’s a Dawn Ritz piece” is the ultimate compliment, regardless of genre, even beyond “the rock costume.”
Jake Paul on the set of Triller Fight Club
I enjoy films and TV series, the fast pace and challenges. The costume department is a team, and those collaborative moments are exhilarating. While I love music and “the rock costume” world will always be a part of me, my future is definitely in movies and TV.
Snoop Dogg on the set of Triller Fight Club
My dream script? Something Tim Burton-esque. Colleen Atwood is incredible, but I’d love to create my own unique world.
Spencer Williams: Dawn, I could talk to you forever! Your passion is contagious. Thank you for sharing your insights and love for costume design, especially your incredible work with “the rock costume.” It’s inspiring!
Dawn Ritz: Thank you, Spencer! The Art of Costume community is wonderful. We’re all cheerleaders for each other. This is just the beginning!
Spencer Williams: Dawn, thank you so much.
